Face to Face with the Scale of the Cosmos: Chile's Dark Skies Remind us of what Billions have Already Lost

On a clear winter evening, we leave the Chilean seaside city of La Serena in search of darkness. The drive will take us east through the Elqui Valley and into neighboring mountains, where the silver domes of astronomical observatories shine rose gold in the setting sun. Our hope is to come face to face with the universe, to feel our minds overwhelmed, and to share an experience that for most people around the world has been lost. ¶ The scale of the universe is beyond our comprehension, but every time I see a truly dark and starry night I'm reminded of the value of trying. There may be no better place in the world to do this than northern Chile, where dry, stable air and skies bright with stars have made it arguably the best spot on earth for astronomy. By 2030, more than 60 percent of the world's astronomical infrastructure will be located in the region.