Effects of Wind Stresses and Progressive Waves on Surf-Zone Currents

In this paper, A numerical model based on the shallow water equations is derived to study the combined effects of wind and progressive gravity waves on surf-zone currents. The wind has temporal and spatial variations. The combined effects of spatially and temporal varying wind and waves on the surf-zone currents are investigated by considering different wave incident angles and wind stresses. Numerical results of the current distribution demonstrate the role of the basin topography, coastal configuration and the combined effect of wave radiation and wind stresses on the surf-zone currents distribution. Also, the water surface elevation emphasizes the role of the pressure gradient force due to the non-penetration condition at the coastal boundary.