Predicting Surf Zone Conditions from an Offshore Buoy System

A buoy system and two surf prediction models are being developed, tested, and evaluated for obtaining wave breaker statistics and longshore currents. Input data is based upon measurements from an offshore location outside the surf zone. Data from pressure-transducer wave and tide gage, a two-axes electromagnetic current meter, and temperature sensors are digitized and sent in a serial-digital format to an off-line processor. Both models used to describe the nearshore waves and longshore current velocity are based upon linear theory. Results of measurements indicate that prediction of breaker heights within an accuracy of 10 to 15 percent is feasible using offshore measurements.